Programming, J2EE, WebServices, SoapUI, XML, macOS
I use SoapUI (on my Mac) quite often because I develop, update and enhance a number of custom built web services. Most of these are SOAP based and sometimes I need to run small load tests to simulate concurrent requests and other circumstances that single requests aren't adequate enough to test. Sometimes, I also need the ability to capture responses from each of the web service calls during a load test - unfortunately the load test runner doesn't have an easy way of doing this. But there is a way!
The trick is to set the 'Dump File' property on the test step that you're interested in (TestSuite > TestCase > Test Steps). I set it to something like /tmp/soapui.txt
. What this will do is let SoapUI save each of the responses into this file.
The only issue is, each time a response is received, it overwrites the file. However using the tee
command in conjunction with tail
solves that issue. Open the Terminal.app and first make sure this file exists before running your load test (touch /tmpt/soapui.txt
). Then you can use the following command to capture all the output...
The concatenated responses from all of the web service calls will be stored in the /tmp/loadtest_responses.txt
DIY, Review, MetalEarth, GameOfThrones
was the flagship of the Iron Fleet and even though it's now gone, with Metal Earth 3D you can recreate this amazing model at home. Fascinations/Metal Earth have recently brought out a whole new Game of Thrones
line of models to coincide with the last season of the show, and boy did they hit the mark! All of these kits are amazing but my favourites have to be Dragon
, Iron Throne
, The Mountain
and of course Silence
The Silence kit is a medium difficulty model and will take several hours to assemble. The end result is simply breathtaking though. The black and gold colours make a stark appearance and best of all, this model is large, much larger than a usual kit!
This kit is a 2 and a half sheet model. It includes the usual chrome coloured parts and also has a very nice gold and black sheet. The gold and black sheet is thicker than the the others and has a nice texture to it too. The instructions come on two sheets and have colour coded parts as well as labels for each of the metals sheets which makes it much easier to find each part.
Assembly starts with the upper deck of the ship. There are a couple of tricky stair pieces but apart from that it's fairly straight forward to put together. I did notice that not all of the holes are clean where black paint appears. I had to push this paint through in a few cases, it didn't chip around which was good, it just needed a little persuasion to make a clean hole for a tab. There is a surprisingly high level of detail on the upper deck considering how small it is compared to the rest of the ship, but this model is all about detail so I was happy to see that!
Java, Unix, WebLogic, Howto
Getting the command line of a running process in Linux is usually easy, just run the "ps -ef"
command, but what if the command line used to start a process is very long? It gets a little more difficult. This is the problem I ran into recently when trying to get all the arguments used to start a WebLogic managed server. The ps
command was only displaying the first 4096 characters of the command line.
The same 4096 character limit is present if you cat the /proc/<PID>/cmdline
file for your process.
Luckily the JDK has a solution for us. The jinfo
command can be used to extract the full command line (minus the executable path) for the JVM process...
Nice and easy!
DIY, Modding, 3DPrinter, Monoprice
After my recent misadventure with a Wanhao 3D printer
I bought the Monoprice Select Mini V2 3D printer. This little printer had great reviews and looked like it will work out nicely. I was a little worried about the cantilever X axis but that turned out to work well. However, before printing anything, there was one modification I absolutely had to do...and that was to add glass to the heated print bed.
Printing on glass has many advantages. It protects the original print bed from damage, you can apply saline/sugar/diluted PVA solution to it for better first layer adhesion, you can remove the glass if a print is stubborn and stuck, and it conducts heats really well.
The only problem is this printer is not set up to have a 3mm piece of glass sitting on top of the print bed and there is no out of the box adjustment for the Z axis stop switch. So I had to improvise. The Z axis switch is accessible with some needle nose pliers, so I used double sided tape to adhere a foam pad on top of this switch and adjusted bed height to suit. (The print bed adjustments on their own didn't allow for an additional 3mm gap.)